Fixing the Heat: Getting Your KTK Oval Flash Dryers Back in the Game
When a flash dryer lamp quits on you, it’s usually a simple story: the filament burned out or the electrical load is acting up. But here’s the thing—you can’t just grab any random infrared tube and shove it into a KTK oval machine. If the footprint or wattage is off, you’re looking at a blown fuse or, even worse, cold spots on your shirts that ruin a whole batch. Getting the power right We make our lamps to hit the exact voltage and wattage KTK calls for. It matters. If you go too low on the wattage, your cure time drags on. If the voltage is wonky, that filament is going to pop way sooner than it should. We obsess over the ohms of the tungsten filament so the current draw stays right where your power supply expects it to be. No surprises. The fit (no tinkering required) When we talk about a good fit, we’re talking millimeters. We use the same length and end-caps as the originals. That means you don’t have to spend your afternoon bending mounting brackets or messing with the wiring in your sockets. We use high-purity quartz glass because it can handle the shock of rapid heating and cooling. These things are built to take a beating in a loud, fast shop where the dryer is clicking on and off every few seconds. A quick warning on heat Shortwave infrared is great because it hits the ink instantly. But that intensity puts a lot of stress on the glass. Keep your tubes clean. Seriously. If ink splatters or dust builds up, it creates “hot spots” on the glass. That leads to overheating in one spot and a dead tube. These are simple drop-in replacements. Plug them in, double-check your amp draw, and get your production line moving again.